Climbing at Cap Canaille

Yesterday with Julien we did an original sequence at Cap Canaille. We went down by the return path of the "Philemon" to the place where the ledge crosses the belay of the second length of the path called "Everything is a question of angle". The goal is to be able to climb the hard sections (7a and 7c) before the sun arrives while respecting our parental obligations in the morning :-), drop off at the nursery and school!

Julien attacking the photogenic dihedral of the length in 7a

The timing was perfect and we were able to try the 7c before the sun arrived. Julien took the time to dissect the movements, I followed behind him in second, well flashed by his methods. We have already planned to come back, just to chain it together in the lead from the top! The atmosphere is crazy and very sparkling.

To end the day, go and try the 8a in the last length "of the sands of time". I had retooled this length last year with a friend, but never came back to climb in. The least we can say is that there is not much traffic! But the route is rather nice with a boulder section at the start which took us a long time to decipher, the rest seems doable after a good location and cleaning. A case to follow what …

Race with the sun in "angle question"

Multi-pitch initiation in the Calanques

Ebba and Karin, two Swedish friends contacted me recently in order to make their first multi-pitch route in the Calanques. They already had a little climbing experience, especially indoors. The main objective was to make the famous stop from Marseille to La Candelle, but given the bad weather and the rain forecast for the afternoon, we fell back on a shorter route.

Ebba in the second pitch

We decided to go to the cliff of Crêt St Michel, accessible in about twenty minutes from Luminy. This wall has the advantage of offering a large number of affordable routes on a very compact rock sheltered from the east wind.

Nice view of the port of Morgiou, the rain is coming!

We climbed the route called "La Chaloupée" 5c max in 4 pitches. And it didn't take more! We took the shower at the end of the last pitch, the timing was perfect!

Arrival at the top of Karin, just before the rain !!

Climbing at Pic Foch

This Saturday we went to climb at the gates of Marseille very close to the Barasse district. This is a perfect cliff for initiation. After a short approach walk of about 15 minutes, you arrive at the foot of a pretty compact gray slab. The level of the tracks is crescendo from 3 on the left to 6c of 35 meters further to the right. The equipment is close together which makes it easier to learn to climb in the lead.

A magnificent 5b on a rock still preserved from the patina
The smile on the way down, the contract is fulfilled 😉

Climbing weekend around Cassis

This weekend I was with three Austrian friends for two days of adventures in the creeks. The first day we went to the calanques d'En Vau and to the Castelvieil plateau in order to make the Ramond crossing.

The famous step aside in the crossing, not very hard but impressive!
At the end of the crossing, there are still two pitches to reach the plateau.
End of the crossing! Bravo girls, we breathe a little then we go back 🙂

After the Ramond crossing, we continued with a classic from the calanque d'En Vau, La Saphir. It is a rather easy route which goes up a beautiful ridge with very vertical passages.

Tired but happy! Finally at the top of the Saphir !!

The next day we put the cover back but this time for a slightly cooler day 🙂 Direction La Ciotat and the blower hole. It is an adventure route intended for all without prior climbing knowledge. It allows you to discover this little-known part of the Calanques in a fun way. On the program, abseils, zip line and rope ascent in a magnificent setting.

Reminder at water level
Ropes course above the water
It's the ballad compared to the previous day!

Thank you to you three girls, I hope you enjoyed your stay in the Calanques, and of course see you soon for new adventures!

Canyoning Session in verdon

It’s hot right now to climb the Calanques! The solution, go swimming in the fresh water of the Gorge soaks of Verdon. I spent two weeks working with the Guides du Verdon, a company located in the Salles on Verdon, on the shores of Lake Sainte Croix. For those who do not know this is really a beautiful place to discover. Here are some pictures to make you want to explore one of the largest canyons in Europe!

The famous jump into the Imbut!

Session in Roquevaire

After deliberation of the jury and great debate! Today it will be the great face of the Vallon de Roquevaire, I named "Graffiti"! A major wall of the region, in the sun all day and rather well sheltered from the Mistral, in the massif of Garlaban.

View of the Big Valley

After a good walk of approach of 40 minutes, you arrive on a beautiful terrace that dominates the valley. We heated in the leftmost lanes: 6a and 6c. Attention to the latter, when one does not know the departure, it can pick cold! For once, no end of Échauff in the magnificent Diedre Guidi, side 7a, we pass directly by the box "mounting of drawers in the projects"… Each sound 8a:-) Morgan goes to "Colo-net" and me to "Yon ti Souris". A way that has resisted me for far too long!! After two attempts in "Yon Ti" it will still be a failure (or one more step towards success:-)) and it is already time to go back down to be on time at the crib…

Morgan in "Colo-Net"

As a bonus the link to the website of Morgan, also monitor on Marseille and its region: https://www.morgan-escalade.com/

Back to the cliff of the turn at Luminy

With the temperature coming up, not easy to find a niche to go climbing on this winter cliff, well oriented south and sheltered from the wind. Last Monday the conditions were met and I was able to do a short session before getting the kids back to school! Indeed, we will appreciate the relatively short approach walk, about 5 minutes from the Col de Sugiton. The cliff offers tracks of all levels from 6a to 8a, ideal so to warm up properly before going bourriner in the backwards. We tried the new 7a at the bottom right at the end of warm up, really nice and not skated for the shot! With a commitment point at the top to reach the relay. Then it will return with a knowledge watch "Bye Fabien" a 7c + well block, well Deverse, which has resisted me for some time! With the shape of the moment I chain to the second Test of the day with a method while dynamic. By the way Bravo to Yann for his umpteenth repetition of this path. We will finish the day by visiting "banned games" the 8a from next door, hard up and still pecking in some catches, notice to the new rock lovers!

Climbing at the turn, Luminy creeks. Bye Fabien, 7c +