It’s been a long time that I wanted to visit this little corner of paradise but every time a grain of sand was pushing farther this moment. Marseille friends had told me so much last year during their reequipment sessions, “You’ll see it’s major”, “the most beautiful 7c of the Coves”, “crazy atmosphere”, etc… That I was almost afraid of being disappointed after so much waiting and praising. It must be said that it is not easy to assemble all the conditions, the Colos resurge long after the rain, the wind of is oily catches, a good Mistral forms too the sea. The season is therefore short, especially as the sun arrives around noon.
The area is accessed via a reminder in the most lying part of the cliff which also serves as a 4-way exit. Then you have to follow a handrail and a small fire to arrive at a beautiful cave with enough space to settle down and drop the bags. The view of the sea and the island of Ramesh is simply beautiful!
Climbing side, the cliff is divided into three parts with the left side of the tracks last from 7c where one accesses via a handrail. In the middle in the cave, shorter and newer ways offer a physical escalation in the 6. While the right wall the quotes oscillate between the 7a + and the 6 to become more classical in the typical white rock of the coves. Attention all the same, you are not on site school and some way engage between points!
After a warming up in the short lanes of the cave, we tried “the classic” of the area, “The Big Galley” a 7c/7c + grandiose that goes up the right part of the cave with beautiful colos and potatoes. Kalymnos atmosphere in the creeks! Extra. We’ll be back for sure.
That’s it the temperatures are again more lenient and it is already time to migrate on the cliffs of the season! Minisud remains a must for this period. In fact, it is possible to juggle the areas to look for the shade or the sun depending on the conditions. Level quotes It is better to have a level 6b to be happy, knowing that the mutants will have good 8b packed to get under the tooth! The walk of approach, although a little long (45min) is magnificent with a typical Mediterranean vegetation and a view of the valley of the Huveaune.
The lanes are short but often without rest and well residents. Moreover, it is one of the few cliffs of the corner to own Tufas !
For my part I went back in an old project, “Downhill in the Round” a well-demanding 7c with a correct start on Colos followed by a well residents part on small to finish after a slight crossing by a throw! Really nice to climb, I chain it to my first try of the day.
Those who follow me on social networks already know that. A few days ago I signed up to participate in a contest to become ambassador of the Spanish climbing brand "boreal". After a first selection, I'm part of the four finalists. Now up to the interviews with the 4 finalists and announcement of the result between the end of February and the 15th of March 2019 Max!
I take this opportunity to thank once again all those who supported me in this adventure, more than 600 likes is not nothing!
Last Tuesday we went out on the small cliff of the “Mirror of the Madman” in the massif of Garlaban, near Aubagne. Very nice day with perfect weather and a cliff really adapted for children, about 20 minutes walk and easy routes.
Back to the Cimaï with the buddy band this Thursday. Before getting on the Vire which does not offer a lot of possibilities to get warm, I propose to Sébastien to go to the Smilax sector, towards the rose petals. We made 3 very beautiful lanes, without a marked block, ideal for warming up. A 6a, which bears its name well: “tour de chauffe”, “colossale finesse” a 6c not too hard for the Cimaï, and “Trip tonic” extended version that should revolve around 6c +/7a.
Then direction la Vire, Sébastien returns in his project “Oceanic” a 7a + which he’ll chain by posing the quickdraws! In my turn to go in my project “Sobibor” a well-dyed 7c of 18m, opened by Denis Garnier in 1985, and which gives its name to the sector. I’m on the first try! Even if the quotation is not extreme, I had to invest myself in three sessions to realize this path!
The day is not over yet since I will realize “J. B Gibbon”, a nice short lane on Flash Colos and the magnificent “ephemeral Spring” 7a + at Sight by posing the drawers.
Very good sitting, warm with friends and crosses, what to ask for better! There is no saying it is not so bad in winter in Provence;-)
That's it! The winter conditions are there and well settled. It's cold and dry, especially with this big Mistral planned today. Ideal Conditions for climbing the Cimaï, the sun and the shelter of the wind. For those who do not know, it is a beautiful cliff located between La Ciotat and Toulon. The cliff seems to be cut with a knife so the profile is straight. Rather a slight setback, it is the kingdom of small catches and the surgical laying of the feet. This makes it a very demanding cliff where quotes are often severe.
The advantage: tracks for any level from 4 to 8, a must in the region, to discover.
Instead of the winter Marseille climbing, the “paroi des toits” remains a magical place, especially during the week when you have the opportunity to have the cliff for oneself. Well sheltered from the Mistral and in the sun until about 4pm, this cliff is perfect if you like the big backdrops and the round catches!
The entry ticket is rather around 6c/7a., but in these quotes you will have only the embarrassment of choice… (more than 25 7a referenced!)
For my part I went back in the second length of Rénatissimo, rated 8a on the last topo. Well verdict, it’s hard! After the relay of the first length, the difficulty remains rather moderate and the quotation concentrates on the last meters. More specifically on 3 drawers where all the movements appeared to me well block and the difficult clips! On the other hand, the points are very close which allows to put the drawers in artif quite easily.