After deliberation of the jury and great debate! Today it will be the great face of the Vallon de Roquevaire, I named "Graffiti"! A major wall of the region, in the sun all day and rather well sheltered from the Mistral, in the massif of Garlaban.
After a good walk of approach of 40 minutes, you arrive on a beautiful terrace that dominates the valley. We heated in the leftmost lanes: 6a and 6c. Attention to the latter, when one does not know the departure, it can pick cold! For once, no end of Échauff in the magnificent Diedre Guidi, side 7a, we pass directly by the box "mounting of drawers in the projects"… Each sound 8a:-) Morgan goes to "Colo-net" and me to "Yon ti Souris". A way that has resisted me for far too long!! After two attempts in "Yon Ti" it will still be a failure (or one more step towards success:-)) and it is already time to go back down to be on time at the crib…
I've already told you about this little cliff in my last article, and well we went back with Morgan this Thursday to try the 8A located on the far left of the cliff. I had already done two Scouting climbs last Monday… After a warm up on the lower-left area, Morgan goes first to discover the way and place the quickdraws. The track breaks down into three sections. The first revolves around 7A on a black rock with small catches and feet that still crunch, to arrive at a good rest in a dihedron. Then we pass a slight Devers with good reversed and we attack the hard section. The crux consists of fetching two tiny strips, then a good reverse left hand, Clipper and then perform a sort of "clock" in order to start right… The last section is vertical on small scales in a white rock with obligatory steps to get the relay! Morgan will make several times the cost, taking a good half-dozen flying all the way up before releasing the rope to the relay!! Bravo for the combativity!
To the General surprise, while I was gone to work and spot once again the way, I put on the first try of the day! Maybe not a big 8A of the shot, but rather 7c +… the way is beautiful and asks only to be repeated. (Morgan, promised I'll come back and make sure you do!) I will then try the "E track" (Yes, still no names on this cliff:-)), side 7c + on the Topo, which I will also follow the first test. The way is more physical and offers a varied escalation with a crux marked on the strips and a fine end in a crack.
Little known and little used in the area, this small spot of about twenty lanes is located at the bottom of a valley on the heights of La Ciotat. However, it offers some beautiful flights of more than 30 meters on a rock which still requires a few passages in order to be a little less "evolutionary"! The tracks are mostly in the 7, sometimes with a few small balusters. A note the opening of an easy way, 5a? , not listed in the Topo on the far right of the cliff. Find the topo of the cliff here: Topo Ceyreste
Thanks again to Thierry Volpiatto for the opening of this sector.
It’s been a long time that I wanted to visit this little corner of paradise but every time a grain of sand was pushing farther this moment. Marseille friends had told me so much last year during their reequipment sessions, “You’ll see it’s major”, “the most beautiful 7c of the Coves”, “crazy atmosphere”, etc… That I was almost afraid of being disappointed after so much waiting and praising. It must be said that it is not easy to assemble all the conditions, the Colos resurge long after the rain, the wind of is oily catches, a good Mistral forms too the sea. The season is therefore short, especially as the sun arrives around noon.
The area is accessed via a reminder in the most lying part of the cliff which also serves as a 4-way exit. Then you have to follow a handrail and a small fire to arrive at a beautiful cave with enough space to settle down and drop the bags. The view of the sea and the island of Ramesh is simply beautiful!
Climbing side, the cliff is divided into three parts with the left side of the tracks last from 7c where one accesses via a handrail. In the middle in the cave, shorter and newer ways offer a physical escalation in the 6. While the right wall the quotes oscillate between the 7a + and the 6 to become more classical in the typical white rock of the coves. Attention all the same, you are not on site school and some way engage between points!
After a warming up in the short lanes of the cave, we tried “the classic” of the area, “The Big Galley” a 7c/7c + grandiose that goes up the right part of the cave with beautiful colos and potatoes. Kalymnos atmosphere in the creeks! Extra. We’ll be back for sure.
That’s it the temperatures are again more lenient and it is already time to migrate on the cliffs of the season! Minisud remains a must for this period. In fact, it is possible to juggle the areas to look for the shade or the sun depending on the conditions. Level quotes It is better to have a level 6b to be happy, knowing that the mutants will have good 8b packed to get under the tooth! The walk of approach, although a little long (45min) is magnificent with a typical Mediterranean vegetation and a view of the valley of the Huveaune.
The lanes are short but often without rest and well residents. Moreover, it is one of the few cliffs of the corner to own Tufas !
For my part I went back in an old project, “Downhill in the Round” a well-demanding 7c with a correct start on Colos followed by a well residents part on small to finish after a slight crossing by a throw! Really nice to climb, I chain it to my first try of the day.
Those who follow me on social networks already know that. A few days ago I signed up to participate in a contest to become ambassador of the Spanish climbing brand "boreal". After a first selection, I'm part of the four finalists. Now up to the interviews with the 4 finalists and announcement of the result between the end of February and the 15th of March 2019 Max!
I take this opportunity to thank once again all those who supported me in this adventure, more than 600 likes is not nothing!
Last Tuesday we went out on the small cliff of the “Mirror of the Madman” in the massif of Garlaban, near Aubagne. Very nice day with perfect weather and a cliff really adapted for children, about 20 minutes walk and easy routes.
Back to Cimaï with the band of friends this Thursday. Before getting on the ledge, which does not offer a lot of possibilities for warming up, I suggest that Sébastien go to the Smilax sector, towards the rose petal ledge. We did 3 very beautiful routes, without any marked boulders, ideal for warming up. A 6a, which lives up to its name: "heating lap", "Colossal finesse" a 6c not too hard for the Cimaï, and "Trip tonic" extended version which should turn around 6c + / 7a.
Then direction the turn, Sébastien returns in his project "Oceanic" a 7a + that he will link by putting down the quickdraws! My turn to go into my project "Sobibor" a very nasty 7c of 18m, opened by Denis Garnier in 1985, and which gives its name to the sector. I do it on the first try! Even if the rating is not extreme, I had to invest myself during 3 sessions to achieve this route!
The day is not over yet since I will be doing "J.B Gibbon", a nice short route on flash colos and the magnificent "Printemps éphémères" 7a + on sight by putting down the quickdraws.
Very good session, warm with friends and crosses, what more could you ask for! There's no need to say we're not so bad in winter in Provence 😉
This is it! The winter conditions are there and well established. It's cold and dry, especially with this heavy mistral forecast for today. Ideal conditions for going to climb Cimaï, in the sun and sheltered from the wind. For those who do not know, it is a superb cliff located between La Ciotat and Toulon. The cliff seems cut with a knife so the profile is straight. Rather on a slight slope, it is the realm of small holds and surgical foot placement. This makes it a very demanding cliff where the ratings are often severe.
The advantage: routes for all levels from 4 to 8, a must in the region, to discover.
Instead of the winter Marseille climbing, the “paroi des toits” remains a magical place, especially during the week when you have the opportunity to have the cliff for oneself. Well sheltered from the Mistral and in the sun until about 4pm, this cliff is perfect if you like the big backdrops and the round catches!
The entry ticket is rather around 6c/7a., but in these quotes you will have only the embarrassment of choice… (more than 25 7a referenced!)
For my part I went back in the second length of Rénatissimo, rated 8a on the last topo. Well verdict, it’s hard! After the relay of the first length, the difficulty remains rather moderate and the quotation concentrates on the last meters. More specifically on 3 drawers where all the movements appeared to me well block and the difficult clips! On the other hand, the points are very close which allows to put the drawers in artif quite easily.