Multi-pitch initiation in the Calanques

Ebba and Karin, two Swedish friends contacted me recently in order to make their first multi-pitch route in the Calanques. They already had a little climbing experience, especially indoors. The main objective was to make the famous stop from Marseille to La Candelle, but given the bad weather and the rain forecast for the afternoon, we fell back on a shorter route.

Ebba in the second pitch

We decided to go to the cliff of Crêt St Michel, accessible in about twenty minutes from Luminy. This wall has the advantage of offering a large number of affordable routes on a very compact rock sheltered from the east wind.

Nice view of the port of Morgiou, the rain is coming!

We climbed the route called "La Chaloupée" 5c max in 4 pitches. And it didn't take more! We took the shower at the end of the last pitch, the timing was perfect!

Arrival at the top of Karin, just before the rain !!

Climbing at Pic Foch

This Saturday we went to climb at the gates of Marseille very close to the Barasse district. This is a perfect cliff for initiation. After a short approach walk of about 15 minutes, you arrive at the foot of a pretty compact gray slab. The level of the tracks is crescendo from 3 on the left to 6c of 35 meters further to the right. The equipment is close together which makes it easier to learn to climb in the lead.

A magnificent 5b on a rock still preserved from the patina
The smile on the way down, the contract is fulfilled 😉

Climbing weekend around Cassis

This weekend I was with three Austrian friends for two days of adventures in the creeks. The first day we went to the calanques d'En Vau and to the Castelvieil plateau in order to make the Ramond crossing.

The famous step aside in the crossing, not very hard but impressive!
At the end of the crossing, there are still two pitches to reach the plateau.
End of the crossing! Bravo girls, we breathe a little then we go back 🙂

After the Ramond crossing, we continued with a classic from the calanque d'En Vau, La Saphir. It is a rather easy route which goes up a beautiful ridge with very vertical passages.

Tired but happy! Finally at the top of the Saphir !!

The next day we put the cover back but this time for a slightly cooler day 🙂 Direction La Ciotat and the blower hole. It is an adventure route intended for all without prior climbing knowledge. It allows you to discover this little-known part of the Calanques in a fun way. On the program, abseils, zip line and rope ascent in a magnificent setting.

Reminder at water level
Ropes course above the water
It's the ballad compared to the previous day!

Thank you to you three girls, I hope you enjoyed your stay in the Calanques, and of course see you soon for new adventures!

Canyoning Session in verdon

It’s hot right now to climb the Calanques! The solution, go swimming in the fresh water of the Gorge soaks of Verdon. I spent two weeks working with the Guides du Verdon, a company located in the Salles on Verdon, on the shores of Lake Sainte Croix. For those who do not know this is really a beautiful place to discover. Here are some pictures to make you want to explore one of the largest canyons in Europe!

The famous jump into the Imbut!

Weekend adventure with friends – Bec de Sormiou

4 friends reunite for an adventure weekend! This group is not at its first attempt, they had already made the famous Philémon course at the Ciotat last year. The decision is made, this year it will be the turn of the beak in the coves of Sormiou.

Arriving at the Luï d'ai pass, it is necessary to put on the harnesses, the progression alternates reminders, passages in vires, walk and climbing.

An emotional half day that will end with a well-deserved swim at Sormiou beach!

Climbing the cliff of Semaphore at the Ciotat

Today we spent the morning at the Semaphore cliff with a small group of three Americans. In the shade in the morning, and with a beautiful view of the sea, this is the ideal cliff to learn the pleasure of climbing. Another great meeting and a good shared moment!

Steffy came from Miami to climb the Calanques!

Multi-pitch route at Cap Canaille

I was recently contacted by 4 Parisian climbers to organize a climbing weekend near Cassis. The goal is to touch real stones of course! it is true that in Paris it is not necessarily obvious! and above all to achieve their first multi-pitch route!

End of the second length and already the void is present

After half a day on the cliff of the Semaphore to find your marks on the rock and learn the techniques of progression on multi-pitch routes. We set off this Saturday to attack one of the affordable routes in Cape Town: "Two scoundrels, three scoundrels", TD rated with mandatory 5c steps.

The two roped parties follow each other, with room for everyone at the relay

The effort remains sustained throughout, with very dizzying passages in a few places. Fortunately the wide ledges at the relays allow you to rest before continuing … A great adventure that they will not soon forget!

okay
With a beautiful sea view …
Well deserved rest before attacking the last two lengths

Initiation climbing between buddies

View from the top of the tracks

This Saturday afternoon we went on the cliff of Pastré for an initiation climbing. The cliff is ideal to start because it offers very easy lines with a nice view of the sea. In addition, it takes only about ten minutes to be at the foot of the tracks. After learning the necessary for safety, the guys were able to chain several lengths in a reel from 4B to 5b +!

The group in action!

Adventure course at Cap Canaille in La Ciotat

This morning, meet on the route des crêtes near the Semaphore de la Ciotat to go abseiling from the "July 14 cave" with a team of Toulon residents. Because of the wind, the road leading to the ridges is closed, which earned us a little more than half an hour of walking to get to the start! At least we won't be bothered by cars! This course is still as beautiful facing the sea with the Calanques in the background. After two abseils, we will visit the cave, then thanks to a last abseil of more than 40 meters of gas, we will reach the foot of the cliff. After a well-deserved picnic, we will tackle the ascent by the "step of the goat", walking on a roped ledge obligatory. All that remains is to go back down to the cars from the ridges. A busy and emotional day for the participants!

Session in Roquevaire

After deliberation of the jury and great debate! Today it will be the great face of the Vallon de Roquevaire, I named "Graffiti"! A major wall of the region, in the sun all day and rather well sheltered from the Mistral, in the massif of Garlaban.

View of the Big Valley

After a good walk of approach of 40 minutes, you arrive on a beautiful terrace that dominates the valley. We heated in the leftmost lanes: 6a and 6c. Attention to the latter, when one does not know the departure, it can pick cold! For once, no end of Échauff in the magnificent Diedre Guidi, side 7a, we pass directly by the box "mounting of drawers in the projects"… Each sound 8a:-) Morgan goes to "Colo-net" and me to "Yon ti Souris". A way that has resisted me for far too long!! After two attempts in "Yon Ti" it will still be a failure (or one more step towards success:-)) and it is already time to go back down to be on time at the crib…

Morgan in "Colo-Net"

As a bonus the link to the website of Morgan, also monitor on Marseille and its region: https://www.morgan-escalade.com/