Some loose photos from July / August 2020

Despite a difficult start to the season because of the Covid, I had a lot of great outings this summer. A little in the juice, I did not take the time to publish regularly, so here is a selection of photos taken during these two months to catch up with me.

Multi-pitch route at Cap Canaille, “two scoundrels, three scoundrels” 6a max
Objective of the day, to climb in the lead and review the handling on multi-pitch routes
Arrival at the top!
Adventure course of the blower hole in La Ciotat
Half-day multi-pitch route in “dung opener” 6a + max at Cap Canaille
First abseil of the blower hole
Day adventure course in En Vau in the heart of the Calanques
The same adventure course with the exit in the Ramond crossing
Multi-pitch routes at Cap Canaille, “Le Syndrome de Lime” 6b +
The blower hole zip line

Here is a little glimpse of my summer, do not hesitate to contact me if you want to discover the routes or climb in the Calanques, I remain open all year round!

Climbing and canoeing in La Ciotat

Today we made an original combination with Amira. We left the Mugel calanque by canoe to go directly to the foot of the “blue workshop”, a large easy route in the 4.

The boat approach

This route is really suitable for a first discovery of outdoor climbing. On the other hand, the anchorages are very far away and it is not necessarily easy to find the next point in the middle of this ocean of pebbles!

In the third pitch, the atmosphere is splendid!

The view of the park and the Mugel calanque is really nice, and it is possible to continue up to the summit ridge in order to have a magical view with the sea on each side!

At the top the view is incredible.

For the descent we opted for the abseil but a walk is also possible. We then joined the boat by crossing at the water’s edge with small climbing steps at times.

The recall to the sea

In short, a beautiful half-day and an affordable adventure even for beginners 10 minutes from the house, what more could you ask for!

Cleaning in the creeks

A garbage can seen on the sea…

On our last big road trip on the cliffs of Cape Canaille, we noticed this trash can probably thrown from the lookouts above by fools…

Put on rope for this extreme trash can

So today we abseiled down to pick her up! After more than 50 m of rope climb we managed to get it out. Too damaged for its first use, we converted it into a flower pot to grow the children's tomato feet 🙂

Promise we'll give you news of our plantations!

Renewal of a forgotten area of Cape Canaille

This winter before I left for Laos, we had obtained permission from the park of the coves to re-equip an emblematic area of Cape Canaille. This is the "Sun friend" area whose classic route is covered by the Ciotat topo. Thanks to the support of the ffme and volunteer friends, we were able to re-equip 5 lanes on this sector: the L1 of the spectrum of the sands 7a, the L1' of Flesh for fantasy, The heart of the millstone 7a, Sun friend 7c, La Pagode 8a.

David at Sun Ami re-equipment

Yesterday I went back to this sector to take advantage of these "new ways". Be careful all the same some lanes still require a lot of cleaning and wearing a helmet is highly recommended.

Search for method in Sun friend,

The re-equipment of this area makes it possible to propose an alternative to the black star for pathways in the seventh degree. This type of basic way missed a little around La Ciotat…

Be careful it leans!!

Climbing in Laos

What could be better than two weeks under the sun and heat of Laos to cut the winter and climb on a beautiful limestone full of tuffas! This is what climbing in Thakhek offers, a real little piece of paradise for climbers.

Colos and devers, in the Hangover sector

Baptiste, my rope companion for this adventure, living in Lorraine, we had planned to join us in Bangkok and then resume a domestic flight to Nakhon Phanom, border town with Laos and not far from Thakhek. So we spent a night in Bangkok, and took the opportunity to visit some night markets including the atypical Chang Chui Market, both art center and party venue!

Chang Chui market, Bangkok

Once you arrive at Nakhon Phanom airport you then have to take a mini bus or tuktuk to get to the bus station and then take a bus to Thakhek. About an hour and a half drive, counting the border crossing. We paid for the visa directly at the border crossing. Once you arrive in Thakhek, it will cost you an additional 100,000 Kip to make the 12km journey to the camp, Green Climber Home.

The petanque field and the Bungalows of Camp 1

The camp is located in the middle of nature and is surrounded on all sides by the cliffs. Most of the routes are beautiful, and there’s something for everyone from 5a to 8b. The approach steps are ridiculous, counting about 5 minutes in flip-flops for most areas! The classic day starts with a good breakfast at the camp restaurant, then climbs on the shaded areas in the morning: “Swiss Oldies” for a smooth warm-up in the 5th, “Botanical Garden” for beautiful tracks on colos in the 6th and “Hangover” and ” Partymeille” to heat the forearms!!

Tuffas and big jug for this route rated only 6a!

At noon, we return to the restaurant / bar, for a meal not too hearty accompanied by a good mango lassi! Then nap, swim, nap and if you still have energy, climb on the other side this time: Hilton for his ways in the 5 and 6 and the famous roof with plethora of hard tracks.

The local pool….

In short, Thakhek is a real little place of paradise for climbers. No matter what your level, there’s something for everyone. Life on site is easy, the restaurant is good and very affordable, and it is possible to bathe on site! For rest days, you can rent scooters to visit the city and its surroundings. We visited some temples and caves. It is also possible to perform a large loop of several days in the interior of the country. Most, non-climbing tourists, are there for this 🙂 Finally there are other climbing sites in Laos, referenced in the topo, but of lesser interest, but it is also possible to combine your stay with a visit to Tonsai in Thailand, another splendid place for climbing!

Tham Xieng Liab Cave

Winter outing to the blower hole

The second attempt for this shock team will have been the right one! Indeed, two weeks ago we had to turn around because of a raging sea! Sheaves of water crashed on the wall well above the zip line making it impossible to pass.

On the attack of the big reminders

This time the sea is still a bit rough, which adds a little atmosphere, but nothing to do with our first attempt. We were able to get down without any worries.

Lucas in the first big recall
Start of the re-up in via cordata

Happy new year 2020!

May this New Year be more vertical than ever! And no need to wait for spring to take this good resolution, the proof of this photo dates from December 28, my last outing of the year with a group of Marseille at the top!

Reminder of July 14, Cap Canaille. End of December 2019

Multi-pitch route from Luminy

Today we went immediately next to Luminy and more precisely to the base of La Candelle to build the classic multi-pitch route in the area: "La Civa". The area has the advantage of being well sheltered from the wind and offers an exceptional panorama over the calanque de Sugiton and Cape Morgiou.

Climbing in the sun with a breathtaking view of the sea, a "postcard" atmosphere today!

The end of the 2nd length
First multi-pitch route for this English team
One last photo before heading back under the gray London sky

Climbing at the Cirque des Dansaïres

He was blowing really hard today! We had planned to go climb the Aiguilles d'en Vau, but after reflection we fell back on an area extremely well protected from the Mistral.

Discovery of the sector for Stéphanie

The Cirque des Dansaïres is located in a pleasant valley in the Garlaban massif. It is reached by a rather difficult approach walk of about twenty minutes. The main sector is very well protected from the Mistral and offers routes from 4b to 6c. The rock is compact and the equipment is excellent and abundant.

I particularly recommend the very homogeneous left lanes in the 4. Finally the first pitch of "Lili des Bellons" in 5b is magnificent.

Climbing at Cap Canaille

Yesterday with Julien we did an original sequence at Cap Canaille. We went down by the return path of the "Philemon" to the place where the ledge crosses the belay of the second length of the path called "Everything is a question of angle". The goal is to be able to climb the hard sections (7a and 7c) before the sun arrives while respecting our parental obligations in the morning :-), drop off at the nursery and school!

Julien attacking the photogenic dihedral of the length in 7a

The timing was perfect and we were able to try the 7c before the sun arrived. Julien took the time to dissect the movements, I followed behind him in second, well flashed by his methods. We have already planned to come back, just to chain it together in the lead from the top! The atmosphere is crazy and very sparkling.

To end the day, go and try the 8a in the last length "of the sands of time". I had retooled this length last year with a friend, but never came back to climb in. The least we can say is that there is not much traffic! But the route is rather nice with a boulder section at the start which took us a long time to decipher, the rest seems doable after a good location and cleaning. A case to follow what …

Race with the sun in "angle question"