I've already told you about this little cliff in my last article, and well we went back with Morgan this Thursday to try the 8A located on the far left of the cliff.
I had already done two Scouting climbs last Monday… After a warm up on the lower-left area, Morgan goes first to discover the way and place the quickdraws. The track breaks down into three sections. The first revolves around 7A on a black rock with small catches and feet that still crunch, to arrive at a good rest in a dihedron. Then we pass a slight Devers with good reversed and we attack the hard section. The crux consists of fetching two tiny strips, then a good reverse left hand, Clipper and then perform a sort of "clock" in order to start right… The last section is vertical on small scales in a white rock with obligatory steps to get the relay! Morgan will make several times the cost, taking a good half-dozen flying all the way up before releasing the rope to the relay!! Bravo for the combativity!
To the General surprise, while I was gone to work and spot once again the way, I put on the first try of the day! Maybe not a big 8A of the shot, but rather 7c +… the way is beautiful and asks only to be repeated. (Morgan, promised I'll come back and make sure you do!)
I will then try the "E track" (Yes, still no names on this cliff:-)), side 7c + on the Topo, which I will also follow the first test. The way is more physical and offers a varied escalation with a crux marked on the strips and a fine end in a crack.