It’s been a long time that I wanted to visit this little corner of paradise but every time a grain of sand was pushing farther this moment. Marseille friends had told me so much last year during their reequipment sessions, “You’ll see it’s major”, “the most beautiful 7c of the Coves”, “crazy atmosphere”, etc… That I was almost afraid of being disappointed after so much waiting and praising. It must be said that it is not easy to assemble all the conditions, the Colos resurge long after the rain, the wind of is oily catches, a good Mistral forms too the sea. The season is therefore short, especially as the sun arrives around noon.
The area is accessed via a reminder in the most lying part of the cliff which also serves as a 4-way exit. Then you have to follow a handrail and a small fire to arrive at a beautiful cave with enough space to settle down and drop the bags. The view of the sea and the island of Ramesh is simply beautiful!
Climbing side, the cliff is divided into three parts with the left side of the tracks last from 7c where one accesses via a handrail. In the middle in the cave, shorter and newer ways offer a physical escalation in the 6. While the right wall the quotes oscillate between the 7a + and the 6 to become more classical in the typical white rock of the coves. Attention all the same, you are not on site school and some way engage between points!
After a warming up in the short lanes of the cave, we tried “the classic” of the area, “The Big Galley” a 7c/7c + grandiose that goes up the right part of the cave with beautiful colos and potatoes. Kalymnos atmosphere in the creeks! Extra. We’ll be back for sure.